Before You Buy · Long Island
Before Installing Landscape Lighting
Great landscape lighting is restraint. Most homeowners over-light, over-spend, and end up with the ‘runway look.’ This guide helps you plan something more like a high-end hotel and less like an airport.
01
Who this is for
- Long Island homeowners with a finished landscape ready for lighting
- Anyone with a dark walkway, unlit front entry, or unused backyard at night
- Homeowners who want a clean low-voltage system, not contractor-grade junk
02
What you should know first
Path, uplight, accent, and wash
Path lights line walkways. Uplights graze tree trunks and columns. Accent (spot) lights highlight a single feature. Wash lights gently illuminate a wall or façade. A great plan uses 3–4 of these, not 1.
Front yard vs backyard priorities
Front yard = curb appeal, safety, and the entry experience. Backyard = living. The two get different fixture mixes and different control zones.
Transformer basics
Low-voltage systems run off a transformer (typically 12V or 15V). Size the transformer for total wattage + 20% headroom for future fixtures. Locate it near a covered GFCI outlet.
Wire routing and voltage drop
Long runs lose voltage and dim distant fixtures. Use direct-burial cable rated for landscape use. Plan loops or hubs to keep voltage drop under ~10%. Bury wire 6 inches deep; protect under hardscape.
Warm color temperature
2700K only. Anything cooler reads as commercial / parking lot. This is the single biggest fix on most existing installs we replace.
Avoid over-lighting
Fewer, well-placed fixtures beat lots of evenly spaced ones every time. Your neighbors should notice the effect, not the fixtures.
Controls and timers
Astronomic timer (sunset on, late off) is the baseline. Smart controllers add scenes and phone control. Photocells are a backup if you have no smart system.
03
Common mistakes to avoid
The patterns we fix most often. Skip these and you’re ahead of most homeowners.
- Using cool/blue fixtures instead of 2700K
- Over-lighting — too many fixtures, all on one zone
- Cheap aluminum fixtures that corrode in Long Island salt air within 5 years
- Undersized transformer that fails when you add a few more lights
- Cable buried too shallow or run with extension-cord-grade wire
- No demo before final install — committing to a layout you’ve never seen lit
04
What affects cost
- Fixture count and material (brass/copper > aluminum)
- Transformer size
- Total wire run length
- Trenching under hardscape (driveways, patios)
- Smart controller vs basic timer
- Whether it’s a fresh install or a repair/replacement
05
What the process usually looks like
- 01Walkthrough at dusk to identify focal points + dark zones
- 02Layout sketch with fixture types and counts
- 03Demo night (optional but recommended for larger installs)
- 04Install: transformer, wire runs, fixtures, controls
- 05Aim and adjust at night with you
Quick self-check
Is this project right for you?
Three quick yes/no questions. Answer honestly — you’ll get a straight read in under a minute.
1. Is your landscape design (plants, hardscape) finished or close to it?
2. Do you want a designed look, not a DIY/big-box result?
3. Are you OK with brass/copper fixtures (lifetime) over cheap aluminum?
06
Quick checklist before hiring
Download the PDF checklistLandscape Lighting Pre-Plan Checklist · PDF · Free
- Confirm 2700K fixtures across the whole system
- Confirm fixture material (brass/copper for longevity)
- Get transformer size + headroom in writing
- Wire spec confirmed (direct-burial landscape rated)
- Workmanship + fixture warranty in writing
- Optional: demo or mock-up before final install
07
Frequently asked questions
Next step
Need help figuring out your next step?
If you’re planning electrical work and want clear advice before moving forward, reach out. We’ll help you understand what makes sense, what to avoid, and what your options are.
Want motion lights or floodlights too? See outdoor security and landscape lighting.
Keep reading
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